Kolumbus segelte 1502 die karibische Küste hinab und landete in Nicaragua, wo es zum ersten Kontakt von Einheimischen mit den Spaniern kam. Die Spanier erwarteten hier viel Gold, welches aber schon bald zu Neige ging. Viele Spannungen zwischen verschiedenen politischen Gruppen prägten das Land, heute arbeiten diese Gruppen wieder zusammen. Der Präsident Daniel Ortega, der seit 2011 herrscht, wird zwar oft verteufelt, brachte dem Land aber eine gewisse Stabilität und Sicherheit, welche lange gefehlt hat. Noch immer gehört Nicaragua aber zu einem der ärmsten Länder Zentralamerikas und es scheint schwierig es allen recht zu machen. Die verschiedenen Gruppen des Landes, Studenten aus Leon, Kaffeebauern aus dem Hochland oder indigene Bevölkerungsgruppen von der Karibikküste sind jederzeit bereit, sich in die Hauptstadt Managua aufzumachen, um zu demonstrieren, wenn sie sich ungerecht behandelt fühlen.
Es war eine lange Fahrt vom Lago de Yojoa, welcher etwas abgelegen liegt, quer durch Honduras nach Nicaragua. Da wir die ganze Reise mit lokalen, öffentlichen Verkehrsmitteln auf den schlechten Strassen Honduras zurücklegen wollten, wurden wir bereits vorgewarnt. Um 6.00 Uhr morgens ging es los, es sollte eigentlich direkt in die Hauptstadt Tegucigalpa gehen. Bereits im nächsten Dorf jedoch hielten wir an. Plötzlich hiess es, dass wir alle aussteigen und in den nächsten, schon vollen Bus einsteigen sollten, um in die Hauptstadt zu fahren. Etwas ungläubig schauten wir in den vollgestopften Bus, während sich die Einheimischen seelenruhig in den Bus zwängten. Es war dann eine relativ unbequeme Weiterreise, zudem die Küken in der Kartonkiste, die dauernd im Bus hin und her gegeben wurden, weil man keinen optimalen Platz für sie fand, einen riesen Mais veranstalteten.
Tegu erreichten wir trotzdem, und das Umsteigen ging schnell. Der nächste Bus sollte uns bis Choluteca fahren, den letzten grösseren Ort vor der Grenze zu Nicaragua. Diese Fahrt stellte unsere Geduld dann auf eine harte Probe. Anfangs stieg gefühlt alle 30 Sekunden jemand ein oder aus, oder es wurde für die Strassenverkäufer angehalten. Wir sollten den angeblich letzten Bus an der nicaraguanischen Grenze nach Léon erwischen, deshalb waren wir froh, als wir endlich auf dem Highway waren. Da ging es jedoch erst los: Stau und Bauarbeiten auf der gesamten Strecke liess uns im Schritttempo fahren. Wir fingen an zu überlegen, wo wir die Nacht verbringen könnten und beschlossen, immerhin noch über die Grenze zu fahren. Viel zu spät kamen wir in Choluteca an und zwängten uns in einen Mikrobus (ja, das Wort “mikro“ ist hier wirklich passend, Tobi konnte nicht mal seine Füsse auf dem Boden abstellen). An der Grenze erfuhren wir, dass der letzte Bus nach Léon um 18.00 fahren würde und unsere Hoffnungen stiegen doch noch nach Léon zu kommen. Jedoch musste an der Grenze alles etwas schnell gehen. Mit einem guten Trinkgeld funktionierte dies wunderbar und wir sassen schon wieder in einem vollgestopften nicaraguanischen Chickenbus, welcher uns nach 14 Stunden Fahrt erschöpft in Léon absetzte.
Léon ist die regionale Hauptstadt des nordwestlichen Nicaraguas. Es gilt als die Wiege des Intellektualismus und des Unabhängigkeitsstreben Nicaraguas und strahlt einen unglaublichen Charme aus. Gleich ausserhalb des Städtchens ragen mehrere Vulkane auf. Wir haben uns hier aber für einmal auf das bildschöne Leon konzentriert. Leon wurde 1524 ursprünglich am Fuss des Vulkans Momotombo gebaut, wurde jedoch oft von Naturkatastrophen heimgesucht, weshalb es die Spanier 1610 in die Nähe der wichtigsten indigenen Siedlung Subtiva verlegten.
Leon war fast die ganze Kolonialzeit über die Hauptstadt Nicaraguas. Obwohl die Hauptstadt nach Managua verlegt wurde, kann man noch heute an den vielen schönen Kirchen sehen, dass Leon damals auch das wichtigste kirchliche Zentrum war.
Unser Abenteuer führte uns danach nach Granada, der ältesten Kolonialstadt in Nicaragua. Weil die Stadt durch den Lago de Nicaragua und den Fluss San Juan Zugang zum Karibischen Meer hat, wurde sie schon früh zu einem reichen und wichtigen Handelszentrum. Jedoch war sie so auch leicht angreifbar und wurde deshalb im Verlauf der Jahrhunderte mehrmals geplündert. Die beiden Städte Léon und Granada waren im 19. Jahrhundert rivalisiert, dies artete in einem Bürgerkrieg aus, bei dem Granada vollständig niedergebrannt wurde. Die Stadt wurde wieder aufgebaut und restauriert, deshalb ist das Zentrum ein sehr fotogener Ort und glänzt mit seinen farbigen Häusern, Kirchen und seinem kolonialen Scharm.
Vom Kirchturm aus hatten wir einen wunderbaren Ausblick über die Stadt und auf den Kopfsteinpflastern konnten wir ein schönes Bild der Stadt gewinnen. Doch beim Schlendern durch die Gassen gerät man schnell aus dem Glanz der Stadt heraus und findet sich in den Aussenbezirken wieder. Dort dominieren Abfall, Wellblechhütten und ärmere Verhältnisse das Gesamtbild.
Am Abend machten wir uns auf den Weg, den nahe gelegenen Vulkan Masaya zu besuchen. Dort kann man abends auf sehr touristische Weise vom äusseren Rand des Vulkans Magma bestaunen. Der Zugang ist auf wenige Autos auf einmal sehr beschränkt und zeitlich terminiert. Im Nachhinein haben wir uns gefragt, ob sich zwei Stunden Wartezeit im Auto wirklich für 20 Minuten Magma lohnen. Beeindruckend war es auf jeden Fall und tolle Bilder hat es trotzdem gegeben 🙂
Von Granada aus nahmen wir den Bus und eine ewig dauernde Fähre, die mit gefühlten 2 km/h über den See tuckerte, zur Isla de Ometepe. Nach harten Verhandlungen über den Taxipreis zum anderen Ende der Insel – wir zahlten trotzdem 20 Dollar, was auf dieser Insel wenig, aber im Vergleich zum Rest des Landes ein horrender Preis ist – konnten wir die entspannte Atmosphäre im Ökohostel “El jardín de la vida“ geniessen.
Dieser Ort strahlte mit seinem Schlafsaal in einer Bambusstrohhütte, einer Freiluftdusche, einem Wurmklo, den Hängematten und dem Familienabendessen eine enorme Ruhe und Entspanntheit aus. Kein Wunder, dass viele Touristen hier für einige Tage hängen bleiben, einen freiwilligen Einsatz machen oder gleich ganz hier bleiben. Auch wir hatten Mühe, uns hier wieder zu verabschieden.
Die Insel besteht grundsätzlich aus zwei Vulkanen, dem Vulkan Concepción und dem Vulkan Maderas. Während der Vulkan Concepción sehr karg ist und hauptsächlich aus Geröll besteht (er war länger aktiv als der Vulkan Maderas), ist der Vulkan Maderas sehr begrünt und beherbergt einen grossen Kratersee. Wir wussten schon vor Ankunft auf der Insel, dass wir einen der beiden Vulkane besteigen wollten. Dafür, welcher es werden sollte, konnten wir uns länger nicht entscheiden. Wanderherausforderung boten beide, Concepción würde jedoch aufgrund der enormen Hitze eine zusätzliche Herausforderung werden. Die Temperatur auf Maderas ist zwar die gleiche (Jaa, es ist sehr heiss in Nicaragua!!), jedoch wird das Laufen im Wald angenehmer (oder auch nicht, wie wir feststellten). Wir hofften ausserdem auf einige Tiere. Die Entscheidung fiel also auf Maderas. Über acht Stunden Wanderung erwarteten uns, deshalb ging es schon um 5.45 Uhr mit dem überfüllten, lokalen Bus zum nächsten kleinen Ort. Dort wartete unser Guide auf uns, um mit dem Aufstieg zu beginnen.
Es wird hier empfohlen, einen lokalen Guide mitzunehmen, da er die Tiere besser sieht, viel über den Wald zu erzählen hat und sich auskennt. Ausserdem ist es eine gute Möglichkeit, sich mit Einheimischen auszutauschen, Dinge über das Land zu erfahren und Spanisch zu lernen (praktischerweise sprechen die Guides hier kein Englisch ☺). Der Aufstieg führte uns durch drei verschiedene Wälder. Im Trockenwald konnte man Vögel und Brüllaffen beobachten. Im anschliessenden Regenwald wurden wir dann vom schwierigen Gelände überrascht. Das Wort Schlamm nahm hier ganz neue Dimensionen an und forderte ganzen Körpereinsatz. Wir dankten uns nochmals selbst für die kluge Idee, die Wanderschuhe ein halbes Jahr mitzuschleppen.
Schliesslich gelangten wir in den Nebelwald. Dort war der Schlamm zwar weniger, jedoch war das Gelände steil und sehr steinig. Der Kratersee und der Ausblick vom Kraterrand entschädigte aber den harten Aufstieg. Durch das schwierige Gelände wurde auch der Abstieg anstrengend und lang. Am Ausgangspunkt fuhr natürlich kein Bus mehr, sodass eine 40-minütige Wanderung in der prallen Sonne zurück zum Hostel den krönenden Abschluss des Tages bildete. Das Bad im See und das Nachtessen in gemütlicher Runde hatten wir uns definitiv verdient. Mit der Fähre ging es am nächsten Tag zurück aufs Festland und von da ins nicht weit entfernte San Juan der Sur.
Das ehemalige Fischerdörfchen ist mittlerweile dank seinen schönen Stränden und den guten Wellen sehr gewachsen. Hier war Sonne geniessen und Surfen angesagt! Tobias stand das erste Mal auf dem Board, lernte jedoch zu Angelas Erschrecken sehr schnell. Angela selbst versuchte ihr eingerostetes Können wiederzufinden. Von San Juan del Sur aus war es dann nicht weit bis zur Grenze zu Costa Rica. Wir freuten uns auf viele Nationalparks, Regenwald und exotische Tiere!
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